How To Make An Outfeed Table For Your Table Saw In 8 Simple Steps
Step #1: Measure The Size Of Your Table Based On Your Table Saw
The first thing you need to do is to measure your table saw. Of course, you dont want to build an outfeed table thats shorter or longer than what you need.
For this project, you get a work surface of 49-
You can always adjust the length or width of the plywood to make more space, especially if you work with larger sheets. But generally speaking, this project could also be the same table you use for a work bench or an assembly table.
Step #2: Cut The Frames
A top frame and bottom frame are essential for a table. These will be the skeleton of your table, so its important to get it right.
Cut the frames at the same time to get eight short supports (22 long) and four long supports (114 cm long). You will receive two long sides, two shorter sides and two inner supports for each frame.
To make the process easier, use a stop block on your miter saw stand. This will make it more straightforward to cut the pieces since they have the same size.
Next, drill two holes at the ends of each support. In our case, we used pocket holes for this project. Also, dont forget to add vertical pocket holes on the supports. These will be used to attach the top frame. We’ll get to that later in this guide.
Once the top is completed, attach the boards together to build your bottom frame. This will create a flat table, so make sure you are working on a level surface. Of course, you dont want a surface thats uneven. Its also best to use a right angle clamp to help with the assembly of the frame, and make sure the inner supports are evenly spaced as well.
For the top frame, repeat the process. The only difference in this piece is the vertical pocket holes that will be used later to connect the pieces to the table surface.
Step #3: Build The Table Legs
Next, build each leg for your outfeed table. This one requires four legs that are narrow and four legs that are wide.
Four pieces should be cut to 9 cm. Then, four more pieces should be cut to 2 inches. Then, use your miter saw to cut all leg pieces to the same length. The leg length used in this project was 28 inches. You can adjust the height of the table to suit your needs. You will notice that your outfeed table should be slightly lower than the saw table. This allows for a smoother transition between the two ends.
Also, cut four square pieces that are 3 in size. These will serve as your wheel blocks on each leg, which well get to in a bit. Set them aside for now.
Next, drill pockets in 2 pieces and attach them to the larger 9 cm pieces. You can also use a clamp to hold them on the edge of your work surface. Then, use pocket screws and glue to secure the pieces in place. You want the ends to be flush with the top.
Finally, glue and screw the wheel block to the bottom of the leg. You now have a strong L-shaped table leg for your table saw outfeed table. You can continue the process for all other legs.
Again, our woodworking masters emphasize that you can adjust the measurements so they are the same height as your table saw. Also, consider the height of the casters you’ll be using. You dont want to have a table thats higher than your table saw surface, as your workpieces would surely get caught on the edge.
Our experts recommend that you pair the legs before we start to assemble them. If you find that some pieces are slightly longer or shorter, you can make adjustments easily because the legs are still separate pieces at this point.
Step 4: Assemble The Legs And Frames
Next, we were ready to assemble frames and legs. This should be done in a large and even area so that everything is level. If you feel that a workbench is too high, you can do this on the ground. You might not be able see what you are doing.
Lets start with the top frame by flipping it upside down. Use wood glue and two screws to attach each leg to the outside corners. You dont need to use a clamp for this step, as the screw will pull the leg tight to the corners. The frame and leg should be flush to the table to keep the surface of the table even.
Turn over everything you have made so far, and place the lower frame below the caster blocks. The frame should be able to slide in and stay in place. Use screws to fix it in place.
Step #5: Finish The Table Top
Once we have assembled our frames and leg pieces, it is time to make the top of our outfeed table.
While you have the option to choose the material for your top, this project used MDF sheet. You can use something else, such as plywood.
Use a track saw to cut the lower shelf. For this table, we used a 114 cm x 61 cm piece, but you can make adjustments as necessary. Put the shelf over the bottom frame and secure it to the short supports with 1 screws.
After thats done, this is also a good time to attach the casters to the bottom of the legs.
The next step is to cut the piece that will be used for the top shelf. This was cut at 122 cm x 71.1 cm. After it is cut, flip it upside down onto the floor. Since your frame is also still upside down at this point, just slide the frame onto the top shelf and secure both parts with pocket screws.
This is a trick that will make it easier for you to attach the top to the frame. Instead of you crawling under to attach the piece from below, sliding the frame onto the underside of the top lets you work easily from above.
Step 6: Attach The Trims
Choose a solid wood for the trim, as it would be best to reinforce the MDF surface.
Begin with the short sides first. One edge should be set flush with the tops edge, and on the other end, you should make a mark about an inch long. Next, cut the trim to size with the miter saw. Use brad nails and glue to attach the trim to the MDF edge.
Pocket screws can be used instead if you use another type of wood as a tabletop, such plywood. Screws dont work well when attached with MDF, though, hence its better to use wood glue.
After the short parts are done, go ahead and install the long trim on the same side. If there are pieces that stick out, you can cut them off with a pull saw to make things even.
Next, use some wood putty to fill the nail holes. Next, smoothen the edges and trim. As a final touch, use a foam brush to cover the outfeed table with polyurethane or a sealer of your choice.
Step #7: Cut Grooves On The Frame (Optional)
Although this is not an essential step, it can be done if you wish.
Take the measurements and transfer them onto the top of your table. Its best to make it a little wider (about extra width would do) so its easier to align it with the grooves on the table saw.
Because its just a little wider, you wont have any problems even if the outfeed table or the table saw slightly moves out of alignment. It would also make it easier to place the guide washer.
Use some straight scrap wood pieces to guide you in routing the grooves for the miter slots. These grooves must be aligned with each other and should be square to the back edge. Two passes using the router were enough to achieve a good depth. To finish, you can apply polyurethane on the grooves.
A T-track is another option if you don’t want to cut miter slots in your table. A T-track will make it easier to attach stops, hold-downs, and featherboards. Although they are not necessary, they can be an added function to your outfeed table.
Measure the length of the T-track that you wish to install. In our case, we had a mini T-track with width, so we used a router bit.
The cuts for the track can be positioned as follows: one on the center, and one on each side which are about 10 cm from the edges. It is possible to use a straight edge clamp and a good plunge router for a more straightforward process.
Since were using MDF for this outfeed table, its a great idea to cut some small strips of plywood and have them attached to the space under the T-track. These strips would make it easier to screw the T-track on, as weve mentioned before that MDF doesnt hold screws too well. A plywood layer underneath gives you an additional hold.
Attach the plywood strips to each other with glue and allow them to dry.
Finally, place the t-track in the slots that you made on the outfeed table. If the track is too long for the table, you can simply cut it off.
Step #8: Attach To The Table Saw And Adjust If Needed
Now that your outfeed table is finished, you can just align it with your saw table and make adjustments as needed. You can use a long straightedge to ensure that the outfeed table is flush and very slightly lower than the saw table.
Do some final checks on the different areas of the outfeed table to make sure nothing is out of place, no screws are drilled improperly, and no snags on the surface.
Why Make A Table Saw Outfeed Table?
Outfeed tables for table saws are versatile and helpful pieces that you need in your workshop. An outfeed table can be attached to your saw table for support, especially if you are working with sheet goods or large projects.
You have many options for how to make this happen. A mobile base, a longer table, a storage cupboard, one with two drawers or a folding outfeedtable are all possible. You can add other tools and materials to the table, such as a drill press, countersunk screws or a pair of drawers.
FAQ
What size should an outfeed table need to be?
The table saw model that you have should be able to fit an outfeed table. An outfeed table should be 86 cm high, which is the same height as most table saws. You can also make it one inch lower than your sawtable.
How much lower should my outfeed table be?
Your saw table should be higher than your outfeed table. This will allow your workpiece to glide smoothly from the saw to outfeed table without getting caught on the edge.
Conclusion
Many woodworkers opt for something with a cabinet or some form of storage, but you can also go without this and leave an open space below for bigger items. A table saw outfeed table can be a great addition to any existing setup. Our expert advice in this article should be enough to guide you through building your outfeed table from scratch.
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